Northern Serbia

I left Valjevo to spend the last couple of days in northern Serbia. Before leaving, I spent the morning at the National Museum Valjevo, which, unsurprisingly, focuses on WW1, given that the city played a central role in the early Austrian offensives.

This is General Živojin Mišić's office, and there is a fine modern statue of him in the city centre. He commanded the First Serbian army in the Battle of Kolubara, an astonishing Serbian victory when they were on the last-ditch defensive line. 

The museum also remembers the Scottish Women's Hospital, based in the town. 

I drove around the Kolubara battlefield on my way north. Not a lot to see unless you count the bridge over the river that was used in the film Kelly's Heroes. You would not drive a tank over it today!

Next was Petrovaradin, the largest Vauban-style fortress in the Balkans and the site of Prince Eugene's victory over the Ottomans in 1716. We did this as a display game at Claymore in 2006, and still have both armies. There have been some improvements since my last visit, particularly at the museum, but there must be many tunnels below to explore.

I spent today in Belgrade. I have been several times, but will never tire of the Kalemegdan fortress and the military museum.

The museum itself is excellent, covering all of Serbia's military history.  It is supplemented by an astonishing collection of tanks and artillery outside. The pre-war Yugoslav army had some obscure weaponry, to which you can add all the types the Axis brought to the Balkans. 

Not many Polish tankettes around

There must be around 100 pieces of artillery from early bombards to the modern period. I'll put more on the website, but the collection is outstanding.

105mm Horska Houfnice

75/27 Deport

Breda 20mm

After browsing the bookshops, I went to the National Museum, which was under refurbishment on my last visit.

A very useful section on the early Serbian states for a current project, and some useful historical paintings.

This is either poorly proportioned, or this is a fat Hussar on a horse too small for him!

My only disappointment was not visiting the CWGC cemetery, which closes at 4pm. They don't usually close, but I suspect they are worried about graffiti and the like.