The Danube Delta

 Day three of the Romania tour took me into the Danube Delta region. This was a crucial staging post for the Ottomans in the wars against Russia in the late 18th century. Shielded by their fortresses on the Danube, they could cross and march into Moldavia or further afield and link up with the Tatars. 

I stayed overnight in Braila, one of those fortified towns. However, nothing much remains of the Ottoman presence in this typical 19th-century old town except some tunnels. They haven't forgotten Trajan, though, whom I bumped into after dinner.

There is a modern bridge over the Danube at Braila, something the Ottomans needed later in the campaign when they were shot to bits crossing in boats. This took me to the Battle of Măcin, which took place during the Russo-Turkish War (1787–1792). It was fought on 9 July 1791 between a Russian army of 30,000 commanded by Prince Nicholas Repnin and 80,000 Ottomans led by Koca Yusuf Pasha. I found the site of the fort and passed a mosque on the way, which gave me a great view. 

The Russians marched around the town, and Kutusov made his name with a flank attack.

I then cut across to Isaccea, the Ottomans' favourite crossing point, probably because of the island. It is still a border crossing into Ukraine. Again, another mosque.

Then, down to another Ottoman fortress at Tulcea. It's a modern industrial town today, but a fine monument gives excellent views over the town and the Delta. 

In the distance, you can see the major Ottoman fortress of Izmail in modern Ukraine, which was the subject of an infamous storming by Suvorov in 1790. Smoke was rising from the city, which the locals told me was probably another Russian drone strike. I had hoped to view it from the Romanian side, but it is now a protected border area. 

On a happier note, they do have a steam engine!

Moving away from the Danube, I went to the Ottoman army HQ in the small village of Babadag. It is hard to believe that 60,000-plus men would have been camped here in 1790. It is close to the only authentic medieval castle I have seen on this trip, Enisala, which was probably built by the Genoese but with Tatar and Ottoman influences.

After that, it was a long drive back to Bucharest, ready for the city museums the following day.