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News from a wargamer with a special interest in the military history of the Balkans. It mainly covers my current reading and wargaming projects. For more detail you can visit the web sites I edit - Balkan Military History and Glasgow & District Wargaming Society. Or follow me on Twitter @Balkan_Dave
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Tuesday 9 May 2023

Croatian Maritime Museum

There are several historical sites in Split worth a visit. I started with the Archeological Museum. However, the upper floors were closed, and what was left wasn't worth the effort. Very poor doesn't begin to describe it. The crowds head for Diocletian's place, which is worth a look. 

The must-see museum is the Croatian Maritime Museum. Situated in a bastion of the old fortifications, which is worth a look on its own. You will need Mrs Google to find it, as it's a bit off the beaten track. If you are driving, there is a car park inside the bastion, so don't be put off by the narrow gate. Just be careful!

The inside exhibits are split into two sections. To the right, as you go in, is mainly civilian maritime history. Mostly Austro-Hungarian flags, maps, paintings and ship models.

Ragusan Sailing Ship

Austro-Hungarian Naval Flag

The other side of the museum is primarily military.

Austro-Hungarian battleship Viribus Unitis

A room is dedicated to Robert Whitehead, who developed the first effective torpedo up the coast in Rijeka. He partnered with a local engineer Giovanni Luppis, who had recently retired to Trieste from the Austrian Navy. Luppis had produced the first prototypes of a self-propelled torpedo. Whitehead's daughter married a certain Georg Von-Trapp, which may ring a Sound of Music bell!

Outside exhibits include PC22, a converted fishing boat used by the Partisan flotilla of the 3rd Maritime Coastal Sector in WW2. It was armed with two guns and two MGs. It fought in numerous engagements and was awarded the Order of Merit.

There is also a fine collection of primarily Italian naval guns.

They have a small shop with a collection of naval books in Croatian and English, some of which I hadn't seen before. I was particularly pleased to pick up a history of the Adriatic Naval War 1940-45 that covers all the combatants.

All in all, the best couple of hours I spent in Split.


  1. Fascinating! Hope to see it some day.

    (although as a correction it appears that the Ms. Whitehead who married von Trapp was a granddaughter of Robert Whitehead)

    1. Indeed you are right. And as he remarried after her death she can't be blamed for all the irritating offspring in the film -:)